For years, the beauty industry has convinced us that we need collagen.

But why?

While experts in dermatology have increasingly explained to us, Joe Public, what collagen is and why we need it, the beauty industry has remained remarkably quiet. Instead, they throw the word at us like a threat, enticing us to baste ourselves in a zillion different creams lest we look old and crumply!

This article will break down what collagen actually is, the buzzwords you've heard, the supplements and skincare you actually need to improve your collagen, along with recommended in-clinic treatments.

It's important to note that skincare should be targeted. Yes, there are staples (I have marked these with (S) for your ease of reference) but view these ingredients like you would the salad cart at The Harvester (seriously, there isn’t anything better!). While the aim of this article is to discuss these ingredients’ directly in relation to collagen synthesis in the skin, you do not need everything. Try what sounds good to you and have fun with it. If it isn’t effective, try something else. If you aren’t sure and need some extra help, call me; that’s what I'm here for ;-)

What is Collagen?

Collagen is a big, fat protein. Why emphasise "big, fat protein"? Because collagen is too large to cross the skin barrier, which brings me to my first pet peeve. How many "collagen creams" have you seen on the shelves? Collagen is the most abundant protein in our bodies; it keeps us supple and acts like glue, holding us together so we can grow without snapping. It’s also responsible for the youthful bounce in our skin!

There are 28 different types of collagen in our bodies, but the one that receives the most marketing is Type 1, as it is found in our skin, hair, and nails.

The Sucky Part

Collagen is pretty awesome, but here’s the downside: As we age, we lose collagen at a rate of 1% every year starting in our mid-20s. Additionally, our collagen production slows as we age, meaning we can't produce collagen at the rate it is declining. The result? Fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of elasticity and plumpness, dryness, and an overall aged appearance.

So Let's Talk Collagen Supplementation

More research is needed in the field of collagen supplements, but studies show promise. A double-blind, placebo-controlled study in 2014 showed an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles when taking a hydrolyzed collagen supplement over 8 weeks. Further to this study, in 2021 a meta-analysis was conducted testing the effect of hydrolyzed collagen supplements on 1100 participants over eight weeks, and later in 2023, 1700 participants were tested over a 90-day period. In both studies, improvements were noted in skin hydration, elasticity, and fine lines and wrinkles. This is notable as these studies were synthesised and vetted, AND none of these studies were conducted by the companies themselves!!

Now, it is unclear how much of the collagen you take reaches your skin, but research has suggested that by taking a collagen supplement, a signal is sent to fibroblasts in your skin, alerting them of a shortage and pushing them to create more collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

What Collagen Supplement should I take?

From the above we can conclude a Hydrolysed collagen supplement would be most effective. My personal favourite is Absolute Collagen, a UK brand. Absolute Collagen has undergone extensive clinical trials and has been proven to show effective results within 6 weeks. https://amzn.to/3RWLauR It does require you to swallow this thick gel, so if you prefer a powder form, Vital Proteins Collagen Peptides has also undergone extensive studies and has an incredible reputation among users worldwide. It's super convenient and disappears into your morning coffee which (for me anyway) makes it incredibly habit forming! https://amzn.to/45UMkNm

Side note: There currently isn’t such a thing as vegan collagen, but labs will most likely synthesise one soon. For now, all collagen supplementation comes from animal sources.

Skincare

A minefield, but my favourite topic. Let's break it down:

Retinols: (S) Retinol is an umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives. It's an incredible ingredient that aids collagen synthesis and thickens the epidermal layer of the skin, reducing the likelihood of thin, papery skin with regular use. However, remember that retinol is an active ingredient, so start low and build slow to avoid inflammation and trauma. An absolute must is the A313 Retinol https://amzn.to/3LbX00D

Peptides: Remember when I said collagen cannot pass the skin barrier? In order for us to effectively add collagen to our skin, it needs to be broken down into tiny amino acids or short chains of amino acids called peptides. For your peptide fix, i LOVE Medik8 Liquid Peptides https://amzn.to/4eRc4hK Whats awesome about this product is it contains copper peptides. Copper is famed for its support in collagen synthesis as well as its antioxidant properties. However be mindful to not use it with an active vitamin C ( L Ascorbic Acid)

Vitamin C: (S) An amazing antioxidant that combats collagen destroying free radicals AND is key for collagen synthesis. There are 2 types of Vitamin C, Active and In Active.  Active vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is very unstable! It can be irritating for some skin types, it's expensive, has a short shelf life, and requires careful handling. However, my favourite form of vitamin C is inactive (meaning it has to be converted in the skin) form of vitamin C called Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, a stable, less high-maintenance vitamin C suitable for all skin types, found in Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum. https://amzn.to/4eV9xD6

Glycolic Acid: A chemical exfoliant great for surface exfoliation and hydrating the skin, glycolic acid also aids collagen production by triggering fibroblasts to create collagen. This isn't an everyday product, once a week will suffice https://amzn.to/3VWAi1c

*Coenzyme Q10: This underrated ingredient protects your skin from oxidative stress that can break down collagen and boosts cellular energy to aid collagen production. https://amzn.to/3RRKW8f

SPF: (S) 80% of skin ageing is caused by sun damage. Wear SPF every day to protect your collagen from UV radiation. We are in the midst of the UK Summer here which doesn't exactly guarantee sun! So for those of you who would like to protect your collagen and have a little colour i have included a link for an ISDIN tinted sun cream https://amzn.to/3xMjzFY

Red Light Therapy: An incredible investment for your skin! Red Light Therapy stimulates ATP production in the mitochondria, providing the energy needed to produce more collagen. It is also calming and reduces inflammation. https://amzn.to/4bBd5aR

Ok, you've got your products, but want to give your collagen a little more oomph?

Time to come to the clinic!

Here are my personal recommendations for collagen boosting treatments

Microneedling: An incredible treatment for collagenases, it works by creating microtraumas in the skin, invoking the skin’s healing response to produce more... you guessed it, Collagen. While there are at-home devices, in-clinic treatments are more effective because we can go deeper into the skin and are less likely to cause trauma and microtears.

PRP: Microneedling can be combined with PRP (platelet-rich plasma) also known as the Vampire Facial, which utilises your blood's growth factors for skin replenishment.

Polynucleotides: Derived from salmon DNA, when injected into the skin, polynucleotides boost collagen and elastin by up-regulating fibroblast cells, improving tissue regeneration, and restoring skin tone and elasticity. They also have antioxidant and hydrating effects, resulting in healthier-looking skin.

PCL and PDO Thread Skin Boosting Treatments: Super effective in creating new and sustained collagen in the skin.

To know which treatment will be best for you pop into the clinic for a consultation and we can discuss the options fully following a thorough consultation and skin analysis.

So there it is, your collagen round-up. I hope it has been helpful! Please send me a message at [email protected] if there are any other topics you would like me to cover, and follow me on Instagram and TikTok @nicolaagassi.