What in the Retinol / Retinoid / Retin-WHAT?!

I remember the first time I heard about retinoids. Someone told me they were the holy grail of skincare, and I—bright-eyed, hopeful, and armed with an online discount code—thought, “Great, sign me up!” The next morning? My face looked like I’d been moonbathing in the Sahara.

If you’ve ever stared at the endless variations of retinol, retinal, and retinoids, wondering if they’re different or if the skincare industry just likes to confuse us for sport, you’re in the right place. Buckle up, because we’re diving into the world of Vitamin A derivatives—and I promise to make it less science lecture, more cocktail chat with your very well-moisturised friend.

Retinol, Retinal, Retinoid—Wait, Aren’t They the Same?

In the skincare hierarchy, all of these ingredients come from the same family: Vitamin A. They’re all brilliant at boosting collagen, speeding up cell turnover, reducing pigmentation, and making skin look fresher, smoother, and healthier. But, they have some serious sibling rivalry when it comes to strength, irritation potential, and how quickly they work.

Retinol – The Beginner’s Choice

Think of retinol as the intern of the retinoid world—it’s smart, ambitious, but needs a little training before it gets the big jobs done.
It takes a few weeks to convert into retinoic acid, the active form that actually changes the skin.
Best for: First-timers, sensitive skin, or those looking for gradual results.
Over-the-counter (OTC)—found in serums and night creams, ranging from 0.1% to 1%.

Retinal (Retinaldehyde) – The Overachiever

Retinal is that one friend who always gets promoted too fast and never has a bad skin day.
It converts to retinoic acid faster than retinol, meaning it works quicker with fewer steps—but can also be a bit spicier.
Best for: Those who’ve graduated from retinol and want faster results without jumping straight into prescription territory.
Also OTC, but rarer than retinol. If you find a good one, hold onto it!!

Retinoids – The Prescription Powerhouse

These are the heavyweights, aka the reason dermatologists have the best skin in the game.
Already in their active form (retinoic acid), so they get straight to work—no converting, no waiting, just collagen-boosting, wrinkle-reducing magic.
Best for: Acne, deep-set wrinkles, pigmentation, or anyone who wants serious skin transformation.
Prescription-only: Includes Tretinoin (Retin-A), Adapalene (Differin, now OTC in some places), and Tazarotene.

How to Use Retinoids Without Looking Like a Lizard in Shedding Season

Whether you're dabbling in OTC retinol or diving straight into prescription retinoids, the rules of engagement remain the same:

1. Start Slow, Like Really Slow

If you’ve never used a retinoid before, ease in gradually.
Start 2-3 times a week and work up to nightly use over several weeks.
Peeling, redness, or irritation? That’s normal at first—don’t panic, don’t quit, just scale back.

2. The Sandwich Method (No, Not That Kind)

If your skin is on the sensitive side, try the moisturiser sandwich trick:
1. Moisturiser → Retinoid → Moisturiser
2. This buffers the strength but still gives you the benefits.
3. Think of it like having a bodyguard for your skin barrier.

3. Sunscreen or Bust

Retinoids make your skin more sun-sensitive—which is ironic because they’re helping with sun damage in the first place.
SPF 50 every single morning—even if you’re just “running errands.”

4. Hydration is Your New Best Friend

Think ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalane—anything that strengthens your skin barrier and keeps irritation at bay.
Avoid other actives like AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide while your skin adjusts—unless you enjoy feeling like your face is having a midlife crisis.

Who Should Not Use Retinoids? (At Least, Not Without Caution)

Retinoids are powerful, but not for everyone:

🚫 Pregnant or breastfeeding? – No retinoids at all for you. Stick to Vitamin C and peptides.

🚫 Super-sensitive or rosacea-prone skin? – You can use retinol, but go for the gentlest formulas with added hydration.

🚫 Using exfoliating acids daily? – Introduce retinoids first, then slowly add in acids (otherwise, your skin will riot).

Final Thoughts: Which One Should You Use?

If you’re new to the Vitamin A game: Start with an OTC retinol (0.2-0.5%) and work up from there.

If you want faster results without a prescription: Retinal (retinaldehyde) is your best bet.

If you’re dealing with acne, deep wrinkles, or pigmentation that won’t budge: Consider a prescription retinoid—just be ready for a serious commitment (and patience).

If you’ve made it this far, congrats—you’re now officially fluent in Retinoid! No more standing in skincare aisles, squinting at labels, wondering if retinal and retinol are the same thing (they’re not). Now, go forth and glow! ✨

Got questions, horror stories, or holy grail retinoid recommendations? Drop them in the comments—I love a good skincare chat. 💬

Nicola-Jane xx

Sabba Naturally Healing