Welcome to the Skin Studio

Key Skincare Ingredients: What They Are and How They Work

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Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

 

What They Are:
Water-soluble acids derived from natural sources like sugar, milk, or fruits. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.

 

What They Do:

• Exfoliate the skin by breaking down bonds between dead skin cells.

• Improve texture, reduce fine lines, and brighten skin tone.

• Boost hydration by attracting water molecules.

 

Best With:

• Niacinamide (reduces irritation).

• Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.

 

Treats:

• Dullness, uneven texture, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation.

 

Contraindications:

• Avoid with retinol or other strong exfoliants to minimise irritation.

• Not suitable for very sensitive or compromised skin.

 

Retinol (Vitamin A Derivative)

 

What It Is:
A potent ingredient that accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen production.

 

What It Does:

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

• Fades hyperpigmentation and sun damage.

• Improves acne by unclogging pores.

 

Best With:

• Niacinamide (helps reduce irritation).

• Peptides (enhance anti-ageing effects).

 

Treats:

• Ageing skin, acne, uneven skin tone, and rough texture.

 

Contraindications:

• Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

• Can cause dryness and sensitivity; always pair with SPF.

 

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

 

What It Is:
A powerful antioxidant that protects against environmental damage. Available in active forms (ascorbic acid) and stable inactive derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate).

 

What It Does:

• Neutralises free radicals caused by UV and pollution.

• Brightens skin tone and reduces hyperpigmentation.

• Stimulates collagen synthesis.

 

Best With:

• Vitamin E and ferulic acid (boosts stability and effectiveness).

• Sunscreen (enhances photoprotection).

 

Treats:

• Dullness, hyperpigmentation, and early signs of ageing.

 

Contraindications:

• Avoid with niacinamide in the same routine as it may reduce effectiveness.

• May irritate sensitive skin; start with lower concentrations (5-10%).

 

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

 

What It Is:
A versatile, water-soluble vitamin with anti-inflammatory and barrier-repairing properties.

 

What It Does:

• Regulates sebum production and reduces acne.

• Strengthens the skin barrier and improves hydration.

• Reduces redness and the appearance of pores.

 

Best With:

• Retinol (reduces irritation).

• AHAs (calms post-exfoliation redness).

 

Treats:

• Oily, acne-prone skin, redness, dehydration, and uneven tone.

Contraindications:

• Few; generally suitable for all skin types.

 

Hyaluronic Acid

 

What It Is:
A humectant that draws moisture into the skin.

 

What It Does:

• Deeply hydrates and plumps the skin.

• Improves elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines.

 

Best With:

• AHAs/BHAs (balances exfoliation effects).

• Retinol (counteracts dryness).

 

Treats:

• Dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin; fine lines.

 

Contraindications:

• Few; generally safe and effective for all skin types.

 

Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid)

 

What It Is:
A fat-soluble acid that penetrates deeply into pores.

 

What It Does:

• Exfoliates inside the pore to clear blockages.

• Reduces inflammation and acne.

 

Best With:

• Niacinamide (calms redness).

• Light moisturisers to prevent over-drying.

 

Treats:

• Acne-prone, oily skin; blackheads and whiteheads.

 

Contraindications:

• Avoid with retinol and strong exfoliants.

• May be too drying for sensitive or dry skin.

 

Skin Treatments That Incorporate These Ingredients

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At Nicola Agassi Skin & Aesthetics Clinic, we combine these powerful ingredients with advanced technologies to deliver transformative results. Our in-clinic treatments include:

• Chemical Peels: Utilising AHAs, BHAs, or retinol to exfoliate and brighten skin.

• Microneedling with Active Serums: Enhances the penetration of niacinamide, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid.

• Laser Therapies: Targets pigmentation, redness, and fine lines.

• HydraFacial: Combines salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants for deep cleansing and hydration.

• Customised Skincare Plans: Our experts recommend products with these actives tailored to your skin type and goals.

Book Your Skin Consultation Today

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Curious about which ingredients are right for your skin? Schedule a personalised skin consultation with our team of experts. We’ll guide you through the science of skincare and design a treatment plan that incorporates the most effective ingredients and therapies for your unique needs.​